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Installing A Deer Fence

June 15, 2009 by Tyler Golberg

One of the things we love about our back yard is that it has woods. One of the things we don’t love is that the woods are home to a lot of deer, and the deer love to eat our plants and vegetables in our garden and landscaping.

Over the past few years, we’ve tried numerous deer-repellent products and techniques, both commercial and otherwise. Still, the deer come right in to the yard and munch away. We finally made the decision to put up a deer fence along our back yard to try to keep them out, and the follow is a summary of what we did.

The product we ended up going with is called Deer-X, and while it’s marketed as temporary, many of the reviews we read indicated it is durable enough for multiple seasons. Plus, by comparison to more robust products, it is very affordable.  We bought two 7′ x 100′ rolls.  Total paid: $49.00.

Since the Deer-X is so lightweight, we were able to use inexpensive T-posts rather than the kind of fence posts you might see on a chain-link fence.  To span the width of our back yard required 15 posts spaced about 12′ to 15′ apart.  The T-posts measure 7′ tall, but have an effective height of about 6′ after you pound them in to the ground.  I simply used a light sledge hammer to pound them in, though T-post drivers do exist.  Total paid: $5.69 each x 15 = $85.00.

In order to support the Deer-X netting between the posts, I followed a recommendation I found to string a thin wire between the posts, then zip-tie the mesh to the wire.  The wire I used was 18-gauge flexible steel wire that I actually found in the picture-hanging department.  It is sturdy enough that it can be pulled tight and not sag, but flexible enough that I can twist it on itself and not need additional hardward to secure it.  I got two 110′ spools for about $4.00 each.  I also got about 200 4″ zip ties.  Total paid: $14.00.

The bottom of the mesh is staked to the ground to keep the deer from pushing underneath the netting.  For this I purchased a bag of landscape fabric pins which are U-shaped and about 6″ long.  I had anywhere from 12-14″ of extra netting at the bottom so I gathered it all up and put it in the stake in to the ground.  I got a bag of 75 pins for $9.97, and I put them about every 18″.  Total paid: $10.00.

The process of pounding in the posts, stringing the top wire, then attaching the netting took about 8 hours to do over 2 days.  I ended up have to cut back some of the brush at the edge of the woods to get a clear path for the fence.

On a whole I am very pleased with how this project turned out.  While you can see the green fence posts, the netting itself is hard to see at all when you’re more than 10 feet away.  And it seems just enough of a deterrant to keep the deer away…though we’ll have to see if that is indeed true after a couple weeks.

Total time spent: 8 hours

Total cost of project: About $160.00 for a span approximately 180 feet long.

Filed Under: Yard and Garden Tagged With: home improvement, yard

Proper Pruning Techniques For Plants And Trees

June 12, 2009 by Derek Smith

Pruning is a vital part of plant and tree care. This task can be confusing so we developed the following guide to help you prune properly. Three basic tools suffice for most pruning jobs: shears, loppers, and a pruning saw. Keep them sharp for clean cuts; disinfect after pruning diseased material.

1. When Do Roses Need To Be Pruned?

Prune in winter or early spring when plants are still dormant. Prune plants to maintain symmetrical bushes and to encourage strong new growth. Cut back all previous years growth as much as one-third its length. Remove branches that cross through center and remove plants understock. Also prune weak and dead stems as needed. This will also encourage strong new growth.

2. When Do Crepe Myrtles Need To Be Pruned?

The best time to prune crepe myrtles is in February. Prune out twiggy stems and any dead wood. Thin out crossing or crowding branches in the plants center. If tree form, prune lower branches. Prune top to maintain symmetry. Each year after flowering, cut 12 to 18 inches off the tips of branches that have bloomed.

3. When Do Hollies Need To Be Pruned?

Prune in winter or early spring mostly to shape plants. Cut back wayward branches and prune out weak unproductive dead stems as needed.

4. When Do Butterfly Bushes Need To Be Pruned?

Butterfly bushes bloom in summer on new spring growth. They can be pruned in late winter or early spring. By pruning old blooms you will encourage new flowers. Also prune out old dead and unproductive branches.

5. When Do Hydrangeas Need To Be Pruned?

Hydrangeas fall into two groups. Some you prune in early spring and others after the flowers fade.

  1. Early Spring Pruning Hydrangeas bloom on new growth. These plants are Climbing Hydrangea, Annabelle, Grandiflora, and PeeGees.
  2. After-Bloom Pruning Hydrangeas bloom on last years stems. These include Bigleaf Hydrangeas, Oakleaf Hydrangeas, Lacecaps, SummerBeauty, and Nikko Blue. Pruning should be done when the flower has faded. Cut back the flowering stems to the strongest pair of new shoots. As plants mature, begin to thin out the oldest woody stems. Remove crowded crossing, broken, or dead branches.

6. When Do Clematis Need To Be Pruned?

Clematis can be put in three categories: Spring-flowering, summer-flowering , and twice-flowering.

  1. Spring-blooming Clematis produce flowers on stems that grew during the previous year. Prune when flowers are done blooming. Cut back the flowers that are now dead. Prune out any old dead stems as well.
  2. Summer-blooming Plants bloom on new growth produced in the spring. Cut back stems before new growth begins. Late autumn or early spring is a good time to prune. Cut back about 12 inches of old growth. Each year the vine will grow larger and stronger.
  3. Twice-blooming Plants first bloom in spring on stems produced the previous year. Late summer or fall will be the next bloom time. In late fall or very early spring, prune lightly to thin the stems. After the spring bloom, prune more heavily for more healthy stems to develop for the next bloom. After a second bloom, prune old flowers away.

7. When Do Fruit Trees Need To Be Pruned?

The most common fruit trees are apple, peach, pear and cherry.

  1. Apple Trees Apple trees should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Always remove all suckers (summer is a great time). Also remove dead and other unproductive branches as needed.
  2. Peach Trees Peach trees are fast growing and need to be pruned in winter. Without pruning the peaches will grow farther away from the tree’s center. This will put great strain on the branches, causing them to break. In winter, thin out upward-growing branches that cross in tree’s center.
  3. Pear Trees Prune back in early spring. Always prune dead and unproductive branches as needed.
  4. Cherry Trees Prune in winter. Prune out branches that cross in center and dead unproductive branches as needed.

8. When Do Azaleas and Rhododendrons Need To Be Pruned?

They can be pruned in winter or early spring. However pruning at this time will prevent plants from producing many blooms. The best time to prune azaleas and rhododendrons is just after their blooming period in spring. If you prune at this time , no additional pruning will be necessary.

9 When Do Junipers Need To Be Pruned?

Junipers need very minimal pruning. They should be pruned to correct their shape, to accent their form, or to limit their size. This should be done during the juniper’s growing stages in mid-summer.

10. When Do Flowering Trees Need To Be Pruned?

Flowering trees should be pruned after they have finished blooming. Prune as little as possible. Dead branches, branches that cross in the center, and branches that are unproductive should be pruned out.

Three basic tools suffice for most pruning jobs: shears, loppers, and a pruning saw. Keep them sharp for clean cuts; disinfect after pruning diseased material. Click here for more yard and garden articles.

Filed Under: Yard and Garden Tagged With: garden, yard

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